Tasting calçots where they are grown

What is a calçot?

Calçots are a catalan variety of spring onion that is covered with soil several times when its growing (in catalan we say calçada), to enlarge the white part of the vegetable until 15-20 cm. It's a seasonal product, only available from November to April. 

A popular story attributes the origin of the calçot to Xat de Benaigues, a farmer who lived in Valls in the XIX century, who would burn on the barbecue onion sprouts and discovered its taste, after peeling the outer layers. Since then, it's been a typical winter meal in the region of Alt Camp, Tarragona. 

It may be true or not, but the fact is that both the cooking and the eating of calçots are part of a peculiar ritual.

The ritual of cooking and eating

After cutting the roots and the top of the leaves, calçots are grilled directly over the flames of vineyard branch. To keep they warm, they are wrapped in newspapers, and traditionally served in roof tiles.

They become black and unappetizing, but if you hold it by the green leaves with one hand and pull off the burned outer layer of skin with the other hand, the tender interior appears (and your hands blacken!).

Calçots are not eaten alone, they are as bit tasty as a sweet onion, so we dip them in a delicious sauce called salvitxada or salsa de calçots, made with local products: almonds, hazelnuts, olive oil, tomatoes, etc.

It's an ability to eat calçots without splashing sauce, but it's impossible to do it without getting dirty hands.

And what is a calçotada?

The entire process becomes a traditional party called calçotada. Family or friends meet together somewhere outdoors, a masia, a house with barbecue, a cottage... 

There is a classical menu: 

- calçots

- grilled meat (lamb, sausage) with white beans

- orange

- crema catalana (a catalan speciality of dessert)

Some local restaurants offer the called Menú Calçotada.  Due to the short duration of the calçot season, restaurants in the area are filled soon, and is highly recommended to have a reservation. 

Here you have the links to some of them I can recommend: Restaurant Masia Bou, Cal Ganxo, La Masia del Pla, Restaurant Mas del Plata and Cal Mosso.

In the surroundings

There are many interesting villages and mountains to visit in the area:  Valls, Santes Creeus, Montferri, Nulles, Montblanc, Prades, ...

Here you will find a well chosen route to complement your gastronomic visit.

Spanish Wine Cellars

Spain is the country with the largest area of vineyard cultivated in the world. It is very usual drink wine in social events or in bars, accompanying tapas.

In your visit wherever in the country sure you will have the chance to taste spanish wine or cava, but it can also be a great experience if you do it in the cellar where it's created.

We have had the opportunity to enjoy a guided tour and taste in three cellars, each one integrated in a different D.O. (Denominación de Origen = Designation of Origin), and with a different size and management.

D.O. Rioja: Laguardia

Laguardia is a precious fortified village built the s.X in the top of a hill to defend the Kingdom of Navarra.

On the façade of the old town hall you can see the  imperial coat of arms of Charles V, and in the new town hall there is a chime clock that sounds every day at 12.00, 14.00, 17.00 and 20.00 from October to May, and at 12.00, 13.00, 14.00, 17.00, 20.00 and 22.00 from June to September.

The subsoil of Laguardia is tunnelled along with wine cellars excavated eight metres down from the streets and houses (that's why the traffic is forbidden in the old town). Most of the cellars have moved to industrial parks in the surroundings to improve logistics, but it is still possible to find in-town cellars in use to visit, like Carlos Sampedro's.




The cave down Sampedro's house is been used as a cellar for the last 250 years, and it was built 600 years ago. The temperature (13 degrees Celsius all the year), the humidity (85%) and the dark and silence make the ideal conditions for the "crianza", the breeding of the wine.

Guided tours are available in English, check the timetable not to miss them.
Carlos Sampedro's in person will explain the origins of the cellar and the development of the wine since vintage to bottling, while walking through the wet and cool tunnels, and there you will have the opportunity to enjoy a wine tasting.

The ticket price is between 4 and 9 € for adults and is free for children under 18 years old.

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D.O. Somontano: Bodegas Meller

In Barbastro (Aragón) is born a new project led by the three sisters Meller: Bodegas Meller.

Ms. Meller explains with passion the type of grape, the characteristics of the soil where it is planted, the collection of the grape and the wine making process in rather scientific and rigorous terms.

If you are a curious person and you like making questions, a tour in a cellar like this one will allow you to solve all your doubts. In the fabulous wine tasting served at the end of the tour, the owner presents every wine and, due to the small size of the groups, an interesting chat probably will arise around the table.

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D.O. Penedès: Bodegas Torres

In Vilafranca del Penedès is located the winery and Visitor's Centre of Torres, known also for his Brandies.

This proposal is very different from the previous ones, we could say it is an "industrial tour", with professional guides, a film in a real cinema and a little train that carries visitors around the cellar.

The tour lasts an hour and costs 6,60 € for adults and 3,80 € for children. It is opened from 9h15 to 16h45 from Monday to Saturday and from 9h15 to 13h00 on Sundays and holidays.

It is also possible to extend the taste with different wines or brandies, or to order a Catalan Appetizer or a Brunch combined with one or two wines specially chosen.

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