Tasting calçots where they are grown

What is a calçot?

Calçots are a catalan variety of spring onion that is covered with soil several times when its growing (in catalan we say calçada), to enlarge the white part of the vegetable until 15-20 cm. It's a seasonal product, only available from November to April. 

A popular story attributes the origin of the calçot to Xat de Benaigues, a farmer who lived in Valls in the XIX century, who would burn on the barbecue onion sprouts and discovered its taste, after peeling the outer layers. Since then, it's been a typical winter meal in the region of Alt Camp, Tarragona. 

It may be true or not, but the fact is that both the cooking and the eating of calçots are part of a peculiar ritual.

The ritual of cooking and eating

After cutting the roots and the top of the leaves, calçots are grilled directly over the flames of vineyard branch. To keep they warm, they are wrapped in newspapers, and traditionally served in roof tiles.

They become black and unappetizing, but if you hold it by the green leaves with one hand and pull off the burned outer layer of skin with the other hand, the tender interior appears (and your hands blacken!).

Calçots are not eaten alone, they are as bit tasty as a sweet onion, so we dip them in a delicious sauce called salvitxada or salsa de calçots, made with local products: almonds, hazelnuts, olive oil, tomatoes, etc.

It's an ability to eat calçots without splashing sauce, but it's impossible to do it without getting dirty hands.

And what is a calçotada?

The entire process becomes a traditional party called calçotada. Family or friends meet together somewhere outdoors, a masia, a house with barbecue, a cottage... 

There is a classical menu: 

- calçots

- grilled meat (lamb, sausage) with white beans

- orange

- crema catalana (a catalan speciality of dessert)

Some local restaurants offer the called Menú Calçotada.  Due to the short duration of the calçot season, restaurants in the area are filled soon, and is highly recommended to have a reservation. 

Here you have the links to some of them I can recommend: Restaurant Masia Bou, Cal Ganxo, La Masia del Pla, Restaurant Mas del Plata and Cal Mosso.

In the surroundings

There are many interesting villages and mountains to visit in the area:  Valls, Santes Creeus, Montferri, Nulles, Montblanc, Prades, ...

Here you will find a well chosen route to complement your gastronomic visit.